Ireland and England, October & November 2012

Ireland and England
October & November 2012

LAUNCHED: 1 December 2012. LAST UPDATED:

Accessed at least times since 1 December 2012.

Monday 22 October 2012. Lovely day. Left for Nashua around 12:30. Arrived at the bus terminal, bought my ticket to Logan ($8.50) and arranged for my car to stay there for three weeks (free!). Bus to South Station then on to Logan. Checked in, then over to Legal Seafoods for a relaxing dinner. My Aer Lingus flight left at 8:50. Watched Woody Allen’s To Rome with Love. Plane only about half full so was able to stretch out in the center row.

Tuesday 23 October 2012. Arrived in Dublin. Joe O’Farrell was there to meet me; what a trooper! Overcast and rainy. Drove to Enniskerry and met by Barbara. Had a nice "fry up," then laid down for a rest until 1pm. Spent the afternoon helping Barbara set up her new iMac. Joe back at the end of the day; drinks and a very nice fish pie for dinner.

Wednesday 24 October 2012. Joe off to work, and around 9 or so, Barbara and I headed off to Belfast for the day. Cloudy and rainy. Stopped for coffee and a pastry at the very nice tourist information office-cum-art gallery outside Banbridge (hometown of Francis Crozier, one of those bi-polar explorers).

Barbara and I stop for a coffee.

The Gallery.

In Belfast, went first to Queens University to pick up Barbara’s misplaced mobile phone.

Queens University in Belfast.

Then drove to the Titanic center. Large new facility. On the whole, done well and interesting.

The new Titanic museum in Belfast.

Drove back into Belfast and parked and walked to The Crown pub. Lovely Victorian interior. Had a pint and Barbara, a wine, but food not available until 5:30.

We dropped into The Crown in Belfast for a pint. A lovely pub.
You could set up housekeeping in one of these snugs.

So we stopped off at a Burger King for a Whopper and coffee (sad, I know). Then to the Apple store to ask some questions. I headed for the Vodafone shop and sorted out my mobiles, and Barbara picked up some groceries. Back to the car and headed south at 5:30. A two-hour trip to Enniskerry. Once there, had a drink, and later Joe went out to bring back some Thai take-out. Watched some TV and then to bed.

Thursday 25 October 2012. Into Dublin with Joe. He dropped me off near the National Gallery where I had a look around, and relaxed over a coffee. Wandered around Grafton Street area for a bit then headed for the Stag's Head pub where I met up with Joe around 1:30. Sadly, our favorite barmaid—Karolina—has gone on to other things, but there’s a new quite friendly replacement.

Karolina. She's reason enough to stop at the Stag's Head. (Sad to report that she's moved on.)

Joe O'Farrell at the Stags Head.

We both have a very nice fish stew. We then walk a short ways to a antiquarian bookshop that had some polar books. I then headed off to find the Hop On, Hop Off bus which I boarded near Trinity College. Got off at Stop 20, the Museum in Collins Barracks. Only had about 20 minutes to spare. Must come back; it's a lovely museum.

The Collins Barracks, the decorative arts & history portion of the National Museum of Ireland.

Waited for the bus and went just two stops to O’Connell Street bridge and hoofed it from there to Merrion Square where I met up with Joe at about 5:30. Drove back to Enniskerry. Had an nice Lasagna and lots of wine and conversation.

Barbara's lasagna was perfect and earned a 'clean plate' award!

Friday 26 October 2012. Up and after breakfast and packed up (save for one item which I'll pick up a year from now). Soon, off with Joe to the airport to pick up Jane and Falcon Scott.

Barbara and Joe O'Farrell in their garden in Enniskerry.
And then, off to the airport.

"I think I see a touch of blue," is the watch word as we get under way. We head for Athy amidst a bit of Bank Holiday traffic. Park and drop into the Heritage Centre and then to O’Briens, off course. Welcomed by Frank and Judith.

O'Briens, certainly my favorite pub in Ireland. Frank in the doorway, surveying the scene.

Behind the bar: Frank O'Brien and his daughter, Judith, haven't changed much over the past year.

Took the Scotts and Zaz to their B&B well outside the town. At 4pm we walk to the Council Chambers where we are given a very nice reception with wine and lovely hors d'oeuvres.

A bit of Bill Barr, John Bonham, Stuart Leggatt and Marty Greene at the Council reception.

Falcon & Jane Scott and Zaz Shackleton pose for a photo at the Council receptiion.

Then back to the Heritage Centre for the opening reception. This was followed by an address by "Michael D" Higgins, President of Ireland. Back to O’Briens for the duration of the evening.

Joe O'Farrell making a presentation to Michael D. Higgins, President of Ireland.
At some point Joe and I check into Bowdens where we’ll be staying. Also staying there: Michael Smith, Paul Greenan, Raymond Maloney and his wife.

Kari Herbert and one of the Antarctic Adventurers at O'Briens.

Geir Kløver, director of the Fram Museum in OIslo.

Michael Smith and Joe O'Farrell at the bar.

Geraldine pulls a pint under the watchful eye of Wayne.
Saturday 27 October 2012. A lovely bright blue day. Walked into town to get there at the start of things at 10:30.

Advertizing the weekend.

All the speakers throughout the day were excellent.

The Athy Library, venue for the Autumn School.

Frank Taaffe with the Antarctic Adventurers.

The Antarctic Adventurers' display.

Spent the lunch break at O’Briens. At the end of the sessions I and several others went out to Seamus’s house to see his collection in its new surroundings. Very nice. From there to Frank’s house for the usual reception, then to the hotel for the banquet. Back to O’Briens and by cab home at 1am or so, new time (2am old).

The Saturday night drinks party at the Taaffe's lovely house.

Our table at the Saturday night banquet. L to R: Michael Smith, Kevin Kenny, Gill Poulter, Jim & Geraldine McAdam, John Bonham, Stuart Leggatt and Vincent Sheridan.

Sunday 28 October 2012. Gray and rainy again. Drove in with Joe. Good sessions all day. Ended up at 5:30 or so, then half an hour for a final visit to O’Briens. Drove with Jonathan and his cousin, Muffet, to Fruitlawn, Carol and Arthur’s terrific place outside Abbeyleix. Had a relaxing drink, then a fine dinner of venison stew. Monica and Ion, from before, came for dinner.

Carol and Monica and Monica, Jonathan and Ion on Sunday night.
Monday 29 October 2012. Weather not much better. Arthur cooked up a nice breakfast; we walked around the garden, then headed off for the airport at about 11am.

Fruitlawn, Carol and Arthur's house and gardens in Abbeyleix.

More of Fruitlawn.

Jonathan, Carol, Arthur and Muffet at Fruitlawn.

Arrived in plenty of time. Muffet had the same flight so we stuck together. Had a coffee and cheeseburger at Burger King (twice in one trip!). Uneventful flight. Tube to Kings Cross and then train to Cambridge. Taxi to Warkworth House Hotel

Warkworth House Hotel.

Got organized, had a drink and some nuts, watched TV and learned about the impending hurricane on the east coast of US. Sent out some e-mails to see what's happening in Jaffrey. And then to bed.

Tuesday 30 October 2012. A very nice morning. After breakfast a quick walk into town where I sort out some things with Vodafone. A stop at an ATM, then to SPRI. Find Paul Davies, Charles Swithinbank, David Wilson, Heather Lane, et al, gathered together. All day session with A100 folks, culminating with tea with Princess Anne. Back to Warkworth House. Say hello to Mrs Collins. Make a drink or two, check some e-mails, some phone calls and to bed early.

Wednesday 31 October 2012. To SPRI at 9am.

Scott Polar Research Institute.

In the Archives all morning and afternoon, sitting across from Bill Barr. For lunch I thought fish and chips and a pint might be a good idea so walked over to The Alma. To bed early.

Thursday 1 November 2012. At the Archives all day. Had a pint at the Panton Arms at lunch. That night I had soup and shrimp toast at the new Chinese restaurant at the corner of Lensfield and Regent. Excellent. Then back to SPRI to see the movie The Thing, which takes place in the Antarctic. Pretty good.

Friday 2 November 2012. Paid my bill at the Warkworth (£60/night) and then all day at the Archives. Had lunch at the Prince Regent with Bill Barr and Bob Headland. Cab to the station and got the 4:45 to Kings Cross. Then tube to Sloane Square, and walked to the Chelsea Town Hall to meet up with John Bonham and Marty Greene at the Chelsea Book Fair. On a whim bought a copy of Thompson’s Challenger expedition account in two volumes for £260, a good price I think. Back to John’s flat by cab after the fair. Drinks. And later to Taormina, a nearby Italian restaurant. Very good.

Dinner at Taormina with Marty Greene and John Bonham.
Saturday 3 November 2012. A lovely morning. After breakfast, headed to St Pancras with Marty, he to the British Library, I to get the train to Folkestone. What a great station this is! Wendy Driver shows up at the last minute. Arrive in Folkestone and walk to David Wilson's house and have coffee with him and Duncan and see their various Antarctic treasures. A lovely location, with views to the sea. Walk downtown and to Papas Fish and Chips for lunch. Then on to the venue for David’s talk. Very good as usual. Meet Aidan Dooley by chance and he gives us a lift to the station for the train back to London. Wendy and I separate at St Pancras, I back to John’s house. He, Marty and I have a drink and then go to the Flavours of India restaurant around the corner.

David and Duncan's flat is in this house in Folkstone.

David Wilson in his library.

David and Wendy along the esplanade at Folkstone.

Fish and Chips at Papas in Folkstone. Duncan and Wendy.

Folkestone Harbor
Sunday 4 November 2012. Slept in a bit. Rainy. I go out for the papers. Breakfast. Around noon Marty and I head off by cab to the Wallace Collection. Very nice but overly French. Took another cab to Cloth Fair and walked by the Landmark Trust flat I stayed at several years ago. Dropped into the Rising Sun, and had a pint and a bite: Marty, Sunday roast and me, a fish pie. Walked to the Museum of London. By tube back to Paddington. Later that evening Marty and I go up to John’s flat where he serves up a nice quiche.

London wildlife.

Clothfair, where we once had a Landmark Trust flat. Marty and I had a Sunday lunch at this pub just up the road.

Monday 5 November 2012. A nice clear morning. I take the 159 bus from Paddington to Streatham, over an hour through areas mostly new to me. Am here to find and photograph two sites associated with 'Birdie' Bowers. The first, a Baptist church where there is a plaque, isn’t successful—the church is closed up. The second—the former Streatham High School which Bowers attended—was more successful: the plaque is on the outside. Start walking towards central London looking for a pub. Finally find one on the corner of the South Circular: The Crown & Sceptre. Have a ham and cheese toastie. Back into town on the bus getting off near Trafalgar Square. Revisit the Scott's statue in Waterloo Place. To Piccadilly to pick up bus maps, then tube to South Ken. A loo stop at the Natural History Museum, then to the Science Museum to see the Sno Cat used on the ITAE. Meet Marty there and then up to the Royal Geographical Society where we spend some time in the Archives and the Members Room, then meet up with Wendy Driver and Cathy Cooper for the program on Frank Wild. Afterwards, to the Gore Hotel in Queen’s Gate for dinner. Home by cab.

The Bowers' plaque in Streatham.

The view from the top of the bus.

Some 'penguins' sighted on the Natural History Museum's ice rink.

'The Rocket,' Stephenson's engine, at the Science Museum.

Sadly, can't claim him as an ancestor.

Dinner at The Gore after the RGS talk. Marty Greene, Wendy Driver and Cathy Cooper.

Tuesday 6 November 2012. US Election Day! Nice weather. Took the 159 bus to near Marble Arch and went to Connaught Square to photograph a house that Emily Shackleton wrote from. The bus again to Bond Street. Went to Sothebys and spent a couple of hours going through old auction catalogues. Stopped by at Sotherans, then to The Travellers Club where I met up with—late—John and Marty for a very nice lunch. Had a look at the library. Walked by the Franklin statue, then a productive visit to the Royal Society where we looked at some Discovery expedition photo albums. Then walked to the National Portrait Gallery. I took the tube back to Paddington and to John’s flat, and called it a day.

The Travellers Club where John Bonham had us to lunch.

In the Travellers Club library.

The Travellers Club library.

John and Marty at the John Franklin statue in Waterloo Place.
Wednesday 7 November 2012. Got up early to see who won the election: Obama! Also, dems got the NH Governor, both House seats, and the state house. Elizabeth Warren beat Scott Brown. Nice morning. Marty and I took the 159 bus to Bond Street; walked to Shapero Rare Books, then to Maggs, where Marty bought two maps. By bus to Bonhams where we met Carole and David Park who took us out to the Brompton Bar & Grill for a very nice lunch. Back to Bonhams where we got the Polar Sale II catalogue, just delivered, hot off the press. By #14 bus to Piccadilly where we went to Paxton & Whitfield and bought a gift box of cheese, etc., for John. By cab back to John’s. That night we went to the Thai River, a stone’s throw away, for dinner.

Brompton Bar and Grill.

Lunch at the Brompton Bar & Grill with David and Carole Park.

My fish stew.

Paxton & Whitfield in Jermyn Street.

Dinner at the Thai River with Marty and John.

Outside John's flat. If you keep a car covered up for several years, moss begins to grow!

John's address near Paddington, our home for a week or so.

Thursday, 8 November 2012. After breakfast Marty and I took the tube to Kew Gardens and went to the National Archives. He stayed all day. I checked out the 'Northern Party' and found nothing, so went my way into town again and then out to Walthamstow to visit the William Morris Gallery situated in the house he once lived in as a child. Quite a nice exhibit. Had a fish stew and a pint at a nearby pub. Took the bus back—a long trip. To Stanfords (world's greatest travel bookstore) in Long Acre, then to Sotherans to buy the book on London clubs. Back to John’s place. That evening, Marty and I went to Geales in Notting Hill Gate for dinner. (I've been going there since first being introduced to it by Martin Henderson back in the 1970s.) In the past year, totally changed—now much more upscale. But they still have fish and it was excellent.

The National Archives at Kew.

The William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow.

A fish dinner at Geale's.

Friday, 9 November 2012. After breakfast, I walked to the Edward Wilson Primary School about 15 minutes away. (This has an Antarctic connection—Wilson died with Scott on the return from the Pole.) Took some photos. Then by tube to the British Library where I worked until about 2 or so. Back to John’s. Had a shower and changed and at around 4:30, John drove us and his friend Gillian to Dulwich College for the James Caird Society dinner. Bob Burton was the speaker.

Saturday, 10 November 2012. Up at about 7am and headed off to Liverpool Street Station to take the train to Bishop's Stortford. Mary Cavanagh met me at the station and we went back to her place and had a coffee. She went off to a Pilates class and I had a little lie-down. Later we took the train to Cambridge and walked to Scott Polar for the Friends of SPRI AGM. I made the suggestion of an accommodation brochure; we’ll see if anything comes of it. Back to Bishop's Stortford. We walked to il Giardino, an Italian restaurant on the way back to Mary’s house. Very nice and we were treated well..

Mary Cavanagh and me at il Giardino in Bishop's Stortford.

Mary's backyard in in Bishop's Stortford.
Sunday, 11 November 2012. A lovely day. We watched the Remembrance Day ceremony at the Cenotaph, then headed off for Harwich to have lunch with Frances and Brian Vincent. They have a very nicely sited house with lovely views over the harbor. The town itself is very small, with some picturesque old buildings which we saw when we had a walk-about after a leisurely lunch of Cottage Pie. Once back in Bishop's Stortford, Barbie Duff showed up and we had a nice chat and some drinks. Barbie gave me a ride to the station and I was back in London at about 9:30. John and I went across the road to the Thai River for some curry, then to bed.

Frances and Mary enjoying the cottage pie in Harwich.

The Electric Palace in Harwich.

Captain Jones' house in Harwich.

Street scenes in Harwich.

Panoramic view of Harwich harbor.
Monday, 12 November 2012. Up at 7, showered and had breakfast and headed over to Paddington and took the Heathrow Express to the airport with plenty of time to spare. Changed planes in Dublin. Arrived in Boston and the bus to Nashua where I retrieved my car and headed home.

For those who might wish to see some photos and commentary from past Shackleton Autumn Schools gatherings in Athy, go to http://www.antarctic-circle.org/athy.htm

Ireland and England October & November 2012

Ireland and England
October & November 2012